At the beginning of January 2023, a new version V4 was announced with the aim of continuous improvement of this benchmark.
Why this new benchmark? What will be the main changes?
We explain everything to you here.
The reference framework COSMOS is guided by four fundamental principles:
- Promote the use of organic farming products and respect biodiversity.
- Use natural resources responsibly and with respect for the environment.
- Use clean processes that respect human health and the environment.
- Integrate and develop the concept of green chemistry.
The version V4 of the COSMOS reference system was created with the aim of an improvement process:
- Ensure that the criteria remain demanding and ambitious
- Promote best practices while ensuring that the repository remains accessible
- Use petrochemicals as little as possible
- Integrate and develop the concept of “green chemistry”
- Anticipate and reflect consumer expectations in terms of safety, sustainability and traceability
What are the priorities of the new version of COSMOS:
- Strengthening current criteria:
- Sustainable sourcing of palm oil and its derivatives:
This now applies to all products and raw materials (including blends). All palm derivatives must be certified organic or sustainable.
Recognized sustainable certifications: Version 4 opens up to other certifications, so RSPO is no longer the only certification in this standard. We can now also count on SAN, RSB, and UEBT certification.
- Sourcing of ingredients from organic farming : (only COSMOS ORGANIC)
Addition of 24 new plants to the list of ingredients that must be sourced organically (e.g. Cypress, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Lemongrass, Mint, Orange, Patchouli, Tea tree)
Certifications according to Organic Agriculture regulations (CE, NOP, JAS or equivalent) grouped within the IOFAM Family of Standards or according to other internationally recognized organic standards (example: COSMOS) are accepted.
2. Mineral and mineral-based ingredients:
- Limitation of the use of ingredients of mineral origin
8 ingredients of mineral origin are now prohibited:
Aluminum sulfate; barium sulfate; copper; copper sulfate; silver chloride; ferrous sulfate; potassium thiocyanate; zinc carbonate
- Restriction of use of titanium dioxide TiO2:
It is authorized as sunscreen, in nano and/or non-nano form. It is also authorized in non-nano form as a decorative cosmetic.
For all other products, the use of TiO2 is prohibited.
- Clarification of the criterion on nanoparticles:
Certain ingredients in nanoparticle form are authorized: UV filters and silica
All other ingredients in nano form are prohibited.
Quantitative SEM analysis is required when submitting the following ingredients: UV filters, silica, cerium dioxide and hydroxyapatite
- Integration of reinforced commitment to mineral-based ingredients
For all ingredients of mineral origin but not for minerals, additional information must be provided to assess the conformity of the ingredients:
- Reaction mass efficiency ≥ 50%
- Review and reduce energy consumption during manufacturing
- Minimize waste during manufacturing
- Ensuring the health and safety of people throughout the supply chain
3. Sulfated surfactants
- Limitation of the use of sulfated surfactants:
Ban on sulfate surfactants.
» For non-rinsed products:
Ban on new products from June 1, 2024
Ban from December 1, 2025 for old products
» For rinsed products:
Ban from January 1, 2029 for all products
- Endangered species:
Raw materials must not have been harvested by threatened species listed in the IUCN Red List
Ex: Pig-tailed macaque for collecting coconuts
- Packaging:
The new version encourages cosmetic manufacturers to use sustainable packaging. Each packaging format must meet at least 3 indicators divided into 2 different criteria (or R). The 4Rs are Reduce , Renewable , Recycle and Reuse .
Neo Cosmetics can help you with this new benchmark.
For more information, you can contact us by email: info.neo-cosmetique@fr
Sources:
ECOCERT webinar/document: version 4 of the COSMOS standard – the main developments